Monday, August 13, 2012

Day 13: We Enter the Realm of Heathcliff


...for those of us who weren't already living there.

Today was a mercifully quick nine miles along the blooming Moors. After nibbling on fresh, hot croissants at Wainstones Hotel, we hiked up to Clay Bank Top and stretched our legs through Urra Moor, Blowork Crossing, and Farndale Moore. After the sun burned off the thick fog, the wind made us wrap bandanas around our ears. We looked like bad imitations of Daniel-san from Karate Kid.  Embarrassing, really.

 
On the trail, we met a grandfather walking the Coast to Coast with his 11-year-old granddaughter.  (He walked the C2C twenty-six years ago with his son, the girl's father.  He said, “thought I may as well do it with this one too.”  Our theory is it took him that long to forget how painful it was.)   

It was also the first day of grouse hunting, and we stumbled upon a field of men in hunting hats, jackets, and ties, unloading on some unsuspecting birds. We hung out with Stella (pictured below), a personable hunting dog, until the hunters gave us the all clear.  Nothing like a few shotgun pellets to put spring in your tired step.  


 A Harry Potter audio book and several windy miles later, we arrived at Blakey’s Ridge, where the 16th century Lion Inn awaited.  One of Yorkshire’s oldest inns and the fourth highest in England (1,325 feet), the inn is the highest point in the North Yorkshire Moors National Park overlooking the valleys of Rosedale and Farndale.  It is a stone walled outpost against the winds.  Thick beams line the low ceilings, and the downstairs pub is filled with worn red chairs, dark paneled walls, and wind chapped customers.  (Are you getting the wind theme here?)  A pint is in my near future.  A lovely end to a brisk walk on the moors.  


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